Best Tips for Growing Zinnia at Home

Zinnia is one of easily grown annual known for its beautiful and colored flowers. Zinnia’s blooms are daisy like flower heads. The plant is grown directly from seeds and grows up to 4 feet.  Follow the below tips for growing Zinnia successfully at home.

Propagation

Zinnia is propagated from seeds. Sow the seeds anytime in late April to May in warm environment. Spread soil over the seeds such that it covers the seeds partially as Zinnia seeds need light to germinate. Moist the soil and cover the pot / container with plastic bag to maintain humidity level around seeds. Seeds should sprout within a week. 

Container

Use medium sized container with adequate number of drainage holes as Zinnia doesn’t like to stand in water. Put rocks or brick pieces on drainage holes to ensure smoother water drainage out of container.

Soil

The best thing about Zinnia is that it can be grown into any type of soil. Soil can be sandy, loamy anything. But it should be well drained. Add leaves mold, compost to the soil for better results.

Sun/ Temperature

Zinnia loves sun. They thrives in full direct sun with some afternoon shade.

Watering

Keep the soil always moist. It is always good to water plant in morning as it allows the sun to dry the soil and leaves preventing any infection or disease.

Fertilizer

Use normal purpose liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength or granular slow releasing fertilizer.

Caring

Deadheading (clipping dead flowers ) is recommended to encourage blooming. If taller varieties start to bend then use a stake to give the plant support.

Zinnia doesn’t have any major insect problem, however it is susceptible to mildew causing foliage to discolor. It happens due to wet and high humid condition so avoid over watering the plant.
Also check for Botrytis blight, a gray mold which attacks flower bud and leaves. Removing those affected parts is only measure for controlling this fungus. A good air circulation also helps controlling it. 

A visit to world known Ranthambore National Park, India

Team ‘Design Green India’ recently visited a famous Indian national park – Ranthambore National Park and was amazed with the flora out there.  The flora was consisted of around 300 species dominated by deciduous trees. The national park roughly covers 500 sq km and has a famous tiger sanctuary, a fort (considered one of the strongest forts in India) and a Ganesh Temple. Ganesh temple area is largely populated by Hanuman langurs. Tigers are main attraction of the sanctuary. They can be seen roaming in open as they are not that much feared of human presence around them.

According to information provided on park’s official website (http://www.ranthamborenationalpark.com/flora.html ), flora is mainly consists of Magnifera indica (Aam), Tamarandus indica (Imli) , Accasia nilotica (Babul), Ficus benghalensis (Bargad), Zizyphus mauritania (Ber), Accacia catetchu (Khair), Phoenix sylvestris (Khajur), Azadirachta indica (Neem) etc. 

 
A red colored lake was seen in the national park (the red color was due to red algae most probably). 

A garden is maintained here by Archaeological Survey of India in fort area. It is nicely bordered by purple and orange bougainvilleas. 

Old banyan trees can be saw here easily. A gigantic banyan tree considered as India’s second largest is situated near padam Talao (a lake) in the national park.

In short it is a must visit place, we would recommend a trip to Ranthambore to all nature lovers. 

Check out more pictures.

More : A Visit to UNESCO world heritage site - Qutub Minar.

Best ways of treating and controlling powdery mildew

Powdery mildew

As name suggests it is a fungus (mildew) caused plant disease in which plant parts like leaves, stems, flowers and buds are covered with a powder like substance. The powdery substance is nothing but numerous spores of fungus produced in high humidity and moderate temperature environment.

Powdery mildew is common problem of plants like rose, zinnia, and lilacs. It also affects some vegetables – sweet peas, gourds, melon, and onion and grapes plant.

Symptoms

Powdery mildew attacks lower plant parts (bottom leaves) first which are just above the ground, then it move upwards affecting upper leaves, stem, buds and flowers. White spots start developing on affected leaves which keep enlarging with time. Leaves become colorless and fall off ultimately.

However, plant doesn’t die on attack of powdery mildew but it weakens and produces less number of blooms and fruits. In ornamental plants, it could affect look of the plant by destroying foliage. 

Reasons of infection

On favorable conditions of high humidity and moderate temperature fungus reproduces quickly and generates large number of spores.  Spores spread with wind and affect nearby plants. 

Control and Treatment

Powdery mildew can’t be cured but it can be prevented and treated in following ways.

- Take out infected leaves or plant in case of small level infection and put them separately in a plastic bag. It would help in stopping infection to nearby growing plants and vegetables. Compost bag material if you want.

- Make sure that plants are having proper aeration and getting enough direct sun light as it inhibits spore germination.

- Spray milk diluted with water (1: 10) on susceptible plants. Repeat the application to eliminate the disease.

Mix 1 tablespoon baking soda with normal water and spray on affected parts. Add few drops of liquid soap in it.

- Garlic extract is a good and cost effective way of controlling powdery mildew. It can be made by blending two garlic in 1 liter water with few drops of liquid soaps. Strain the mixture through a cloth to remove the solid part and spray the liquid on the plant.  

- Spray plant with neem oil made by seeds. Neem oil has fungicidal properties. It disrupts fungus metabolism, forms a barrier between the plant and the fungus and inhibit spore germination. On application it is absorbed by the leaf and circulated around to maximize area of coverage. Neem oil mixed in water, absorbed by the roots and circulated all over the plant.

- Use sulfur sprays available in market to control powdery mildew as sulfur creates low pH environment which is detrimental for the fungus.

Read ways of controlling mealy bugs and aphid attack on the plants.

Best Tips For Growing Pelargonium at home

Pelargonium grown as an annual is very much popular among home gardeners. It blooms all the year and comes in red, pink, purple color. Leaves are almost round and thicker than normal. Pelargonium is ideal for garden beds, hanging baskets and containers. It can be grown outdoors as well as indoors. In winter, it can be brought inside and grown. Pelargoniums are grown as perennial where it doesn’t freeze.

Propagation

Pelargonim is propagated from seeds and cuttings. April is ideal for sowing seeds. Prepare garden bed by tilling and adding compost to it. Tilling loosen up the soil so that it becomes easy for roots to grow faster. A layer of compost will add nutrients in the soil which is used by the plants. Do not bury seeds deep in the soil as they need light to germinate. Sprinkle water to make soil moist. In case of containers or pots sow 2-3 seeds per container and thin out (keeping only healthy plants) them later.

Pelargoniums are easy to grow by cuttings too. Start taking cuttings in spring (March-April). Cuttings can be taken in autumn too. Select a healthy looking 5-6 inches long stem having minimum two nodes (place where leaf comes out on stem). Make a cut just below the lower node and clip off all leaves but 2-3 at top. Cut the stem tip and remove any bud present on the cutting otherwise they will consume most of energy of the plant. Dip cutting in rooting hormone or in honey to promote rooting faster. Make a 2-3 inches deep hole in the soil with help of pencil or any other object. Place the cutting in the hole, water it and cover with a plastic bag to help in retaining moisture. Place the container in shaded place where it is not getting direct sun light.

Pelargonium can be rooted in water too. Take around 6 inches long stem cutting, remove all but top leaves. Put it in a water filled jar and place the jar in bright location but not in direct sun. 

Container

Decide the size of container depending on the Pelargonium variety. Container should be well cleaned. It should contain drainage holes to ensure smooth passage of water as Pelargonium doesn’t like to stand in water. If you are using old container then wash it properly before use.

Soil

Pelargonium grows in almost any kind of soil. Add compost to enrich it with nutrients. You can add a layer of mulch (dried leaves, straws etc) to keep environment around plant moist.

Sun / Temperature

Pelargonium needs 5-6 hours of sun light to grow. However it can be grown in shaded place too where it is getting enough light exposure. 

Watering

Allow soil to dry out before watering again. Scratch the soil surface with finger, if the soil is barely moist or dry then plant needs water. Cut down watering in winter as that time plant is not growing actively. 

Fertilizer

Use solid granular fertilizer at starting of growing season. Or you can use liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength in every 2-3 months. Plant doesn’t feed fertilizer in winter.

Caring

Clip off dead flowers (deadheading) to increase blooming. Prune Pelargonium in fall (November to January end) to encourage bushiness.

More tips : How to grow Impatiens at home.

Know more about earthworms present in your garden soil

If you have come across slightly transparent reddish, brown or gray colored and 10-12 cm long worm wriggling in your gardens, then you have a reason to cheer. 
The worm is called earthworm and its presence in your garden soil indicates that the soil is nutrient rich.

Nature’s plow as popularly called, loosen up soil and make it more porous and aerated. They feed on the soil and organic matter like dried leaves present in it and convert them into a nutrient rich dark granular castings called as ‘worm castings’. These worm castings are good fertilizer providing plants nutrients otherwise unavailable to the plant.

Earthworm’s body is made of around 100 small segments which are clearly visible on its body. The first segment at anterior side is its mouth. As it moves, it consume soil thus making a network on interconnected burrows all the way. These burrows help in passing water and air through the soil thus helping roots grow. After feeding soil, it will digest the soil in body. During digestion in earthworm’s body, organic matter present in the soil is broken down into useful nutrients and excreted as worm castings. That’s why these worm castings act as fertilizer.

Life cycle of an earthworm

Earthworm lays eggs in spring in a cocoon buried beneath the soil. Eggs hatch within 3-4 weeks and they mature within 10 weeks after hatching and a dark 3-4 segment long dark cuticle appears on the earthworm body. It is called as clitellum. Presence of clitellum on earthworm’s body is an indicator of sexual maturity. Then it mates and produces eggs. Disappearance of clitellum indicates onset of old age and senescence. Earthworm generally lives to 4-8 years. 

Attracting earthworm in your garden

Adding nutrient rich compost to the soil invites earthworm as they thrive in there. Keep your soil moist and damp. In such conditions, the earthworm’s skin stays wet and moist allowing it to breathe. Due to the same reason you must have noticed these worms crawling on the surface after hard rain. Leaf litter around the surface and a layer of mulch is assumed as an invitation by earthworms. You can bury kitchen waste in the garden soil to attract more earthworms.

Avoid pesticides and other chemical sprays as they will repel earthworms. 

Vermiculture Composting

It is a process of decomposing organic matter (waste food, kitchen scraps etc) into a nutrient rich matter which can be used by plants for their growth using worms like earthworms.

Earthworm are fed food waste like fruit and vegetable trimmings, ground egg shells, lettuce leaves and garden clippings like grass clippings, leaves. You shouldn’t be feeding any dairy products and meat to earthworms.

Red earthworm ( Eisenia fetida) is best for vermiculture composting. They are generally found near on the soil surface. Put these worms with food (mentioned above) in a closed container and let the process going on. Harvest the earthworms once the food is converted to earthly smelling matter and granular dark castings are formed.  

Know more about your garden soil.