Growing Rose from stem cuttings is not a much
hard task. Below are the tips which can be useful in the process.
Season
Best timing of rooting cuttings is spring or
starting of the summer, when the weather is warm but not too much hot. You can
root cuttings at other times of the year too, but it may take longer. A few types such as Rosa gallicas may root
more successfully in autumn.
Timing
If potted in May or early June, some varieties
will have roots in as little as two weeks. Nearly any variety can be rooted in
three to four weeks at that time of year. At other times the process takes
longer- up to seven or eight weeks. There are many ways to tell whether a
cutting is rooted or not. You can tug lightly on it, and if it resists being
pulled out of the pot, it likely has roots. Also, roots growing out the
drainage holes in the bottom of the pot are another indication of successful
rooting. A more simple way is to watch for new leaves on the cuttings. Rooted
cuttings have new leaves growing on them whereas un rooted cuttings do not.
Age
Make sure you take cuttings from firm but young
stems. On a repeat- flowering variety, that would be stems on which the flowers
are fading or from which the petals have just fallen. On a once- flowering
plant, you can use stems from which the flowers are fading in the spring, or
similar-age wood from subsequent growth flushes throughout the summer or fall.
Leaves
Rose can be rooted from leaf less cuttings or
cuttings having 2-3 leaves on it. However leafy cuttings has more chances as
leaves provide food prepared from photosynthesis as well as root- promoting
hormones. Keep a spray bottle of water handy to mist over the cuttings while
working on them, to keep them crisp, since wilted cuttings often fail to root.
Making cuts and Wounding
While taking cuttings, make cut just above a leaf
node. Clip off all leaves leaving 2-3 on top. Dip the cutting in rooting
hormone. You can use honey too as a natural rooting agent. You can “wound” the base
of the cutting, either by making ½ - to 1-inch vertical slits through the bark,
or by slicing a strip of bark off one or two sides of the base of the cutting
with the clipper blade. Difficult varieties often benefit from such wounding,
sending out roots all along the wound.
Rooting hormones
You can root rose varieties without the use of
hormone preparations. This is because rose cuttings contain auxin (
indoleacitic acid – “IAA” ), a natural root-promoting hormone. It is produced
by the leaves and growing buds or shoot tips and accumulates at the bottom of a
cutting, where the roots will form. But some roses apparently don’t produce
adequate supplies of auxin and are difficult to root. If they produce any roots
at all, they are few and weak. So, many growers apply a commercial hormone
preparation to stimulate the production of strong roots. These products contain
synthetic auxin, usually indolebutyric acid (IBA) and / or naphthaleneacetic
acid (NAA).
Moisture
One of the most important factors in successfully
rooting cuttings is maintaining adequate moisture, both in the soil and in the
form of humidity in the air. Place the cuttings in pots of moist sand or potting
soil, then cover them with a plastic bag, mayonnaise jar or inverted two-liter
soft drink bottle with the top cut off, creating a small tent or “greenhouse”
to maintain high humidity around the cuttings.
Light
Roses root best in bright light. But when using
the mini-greenhouse method, it’s important to avoid overheating by giving some
shade from hot, midday sun. Put the cuttings in bright shade, such as against
the north wall of a building or under a tree, to allow rooting without too much
heat build-up.
Once the cuttings are rooted and have been
removed from the rooting area, harden them off for a few days by putting the
pots in a cool, shady area. Moving them immediately into hot sunshine may
damage or even kill the plants. Once they have a goof, large root system and
putting out new growth, they can be moved into brighter light.
dear sir how grow a rose plant?
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